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Roberts Wood AW17
The AW17 presentation is an exploration of the everyday and the meaning we attribute to objects and events. It considers the conflict between rational, scientific thought processes and superstition. The ideas of luck and predetermination seem to contradict the notion of being in control of our destination, yet how we feel about luck and chance can have a huge influence on our outlook and decisions in everyday life.
The mood for AW17 is soft and purposeful, yet quiet: a journey of meta-state. The landscape conceptualised; a reference to an unspecified place that, whilst familiar, is also abstracted through repetition of a very ordinary object – one that is rooted in the everyday and chosen for its very ubiquitous qualities. The sounds are generative, combining programming and chance: predetermination and randomness. They build, fade and flow, whilst layers of synchronised murmuring light surround us.
In this collection ROBERTS | WOOD abstracts commonly occurring patterns and textures; multiplying, layering, expanding and repeating them until they become something extraordinary.
Heavy wools and padded twills are cut away to create lightness; revealing the layer underneath – of fabric, or skin. Bows peel back from the garments, tied to form external 3-dimensional shapes, created by subtraction from the flat surfaces of the fabric from which they were cut. Elsewhere, heavy materials are balanced by adding the airiness of bias silk ruffles, which merge with heritage wools using the designer’s signature non-stitched hand- linking technique.
The collection focuses heavily on everyday pattern – In order to subvert traditional striped shirting fabrics, ROBERTS | WOOD has collaborated with textile print studio SC Design Lab to create a series of digitally printed striped fabrics which are subtly distorted and faded. A continuation on the theme of layering runs throughout the collection, where stripes are overlaid in alternating directions to create new patterns. Through fading and transparency of the prints, these appear to dissolve away to nothing, allowing patterns to flow from stripes to checks and back again. ROBERTS | WOOD has continued to develop its signature non-stitched construction techniques, using these fabrics to create the illusion of giant woven structures.
The designer has distorted the idea of quilting, another common fabric reference, by creating a non-stitched sheer version – large flat shapes are cut in silk and ‘shrunk on’ to the base garments, leaving the surrounding material to create transparent shrouds of colour that envelop the wearer.
The collection is representative of a highly instinctive design process that embodies the symbiotic relationship between precise and considered decision on one hand, and embracing chance and mistakes on the other.